Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Paris Spring Couture: Jean-Paul Gaultier

I once had a friend who was terrified of mariachi bands the way that many people are terrified of clowns. I never understood this phobia. Then Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Couture 2010 happened. And yes, there was a mariachi band.
Initially, the Mexica Diaspora theme caused a stir of excitement: would it be ranchos and guachos with worn denim and warm striped knits? Atzec princess with big gold cuffs and bias cut togas? Santa María with black lace cut-outs and ruffles slit up to there? ¡Andalé, Jean Paul, lo qiuero!
This excitement came with valid cause. Gaultier is not only a creative genius and an unrivaled couturier, but a visionary famous for perfectly executing grand thematic arrangements. In this particular season, however, his penchant for themes teetered toward the more negative connotation of the word. A little too literal without updating, the collection was a grab-bag of every Mexica theme you could think of: Jean Paul visited the rancho motif to be sure, but it was eerily reminiscent of his 2009 Spring RTW for Hermés without being similarly  well-executed (cigars were cute the first time, cheeky the second). Aztec princess was in full effect, as was Mayan, Inca, and Avatar (yes, Avatar) princess. Católica theme was present, but not in the way imagined. And did we mention the Carmen Miranda? 
Nevertheless, if Jean Paul throws a fiesta, we go. And we have a great time. Even if the collection wasn’t what we imagined, Gaultier remains the visionary genius que amamos
Below are my favorite looks. To view the whole collection, review, details, front row, and aforementioned aye carumba, click here.

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